Country Home

May 2003

“Happy Trails, Cycle Through Scenic Countryside and Friendly Towns on these Routes”
Cape Cod, Massachusetts

Bicycling Cape Cod can take an afternoon or a week.  To fitness buffs, the 25 mile-mounting in each village from Dennis to long Cape Cod Rail Trail might be only a moderate workout, and the hilly trails of Nickerson State Park more of a challenge—but families and those interested in a slower pace won’t want to pass up the temptation of dismounting in each village from Dennis to South Wellfleet.

The Cape Cod Rail Trail traces the eastern half of a rail line that for more than half a century was the Cape’s only overland link to Boston and the mainland, carrying a growing number of vacationers and provisions to supply them.  Passenger service ended in 1937 just two years after bridges opened to cars, and by the mid 1960s, much of the track was gone.

Today’s visitors are taking to the old line in new ways—on foot, bikes, inline skates, and horseback.  Hard-surfaced and fairly flat, the rail trail makes for easy cycling.  And it passes through a range of landscapes and seascapes:  from salt marshes and freshwater kettle ponds teeming with birds to white pine and spruce forests, past stretches of sandy shoreline and views of Cape Cod Bay dotted with lighthouses.

Countryside turns to village—and back again—in minutes.  Along the way, you might stop for an ice-cold drink at the Pleasant Lake General Store in Harwich, browse galleries in Brewster or Orleans, and bird-watch at the Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary in Wellfleet.  Feast on seafood while on the Cape:  Be sure to sample fried clams in Eastham and oysters in Wellfleet, plus scallops and cod most anywhere.

The end of the rail trail need not be the end of your ride; Cape Cod National Seashore also welcomes cyclists on three trails.  Nickerson State Park, the halfway point of the rail trail, offers about 10 miles of trails, including challenging hilly routes and plenty of inviting spots to spread out a picnic.

Where to stay:  the Cape boasts more than 250 bed-and-breakfast inns, as well as numerous hotels.  For charming rooms in an ideal location, choose the Whalewalk Inn in Eastham (800/440-1281; www.whalewalkinn.com).  The 175 year –old whaling captain’s home is a two-minute bike ride from the Cape Cod Trail, within walking distance of the beach, and a ten-minute drive from the National Seashore. Places to rent bicycles are close by. Bring your own bicycle and store them at the Inn. Towels also supplied for cleaning of bicycles.

220 Bridge Road • Eastham, Cape Cod, MA 02642 • 508 255 0617